Ultimate Guide to Soundproofing Your Basement: Tips & Tricks

You’ve got plans for that lower level, but there’s one thing getting in the way—sound. Maybe it’s kids doing cartwheels above, or teenagers trying to start a band, or you just want a basement apartment that doesn’t sound like it’s under the kitchen. That’s where soundproofing your basement really matters. And no, it’s not just about sticking some foam on the walls (we’ll talk about that). Let’s walk through what actually works in Salt Lake City homes, where basements pull double duty as family rooms, rentals, and sometimes offices.

Why basement noise is different in Salt Lake City

Utah basements are built pretty well, but they weren’t always designed to be quiet. Lots of homes along the Wasatch Front have open floor plans on the main level and then a basement that’s framed, insulated a little, and finished later. That means sound from upstairs travels easily through joists and wall cavities—like a freeway for noise.

Also, basements in our area often become real living spaces—mother-in-law suites, Airbnb rentals, theater rooms—so privacy suddenly matters. You don’t want your renter listening to Monday Night Football upstairs. And you definitely don’t want the reverse.

Here’s the thing: sound travels through any little path. So we focus on blocking the paths first, then upgrading the structure.

Step one: seal the leaks before you build the bunker

People jump straight to expensive sound panels and miss the easiest win—air gaps. If air can move through it, sound can, too.

Walk your basement and check:

• Gaps at the top and bottom plates
• Open electrical boxes or unfinished low-voltage holes
• Plumbing and HVAC penetrations that weren’t sealed
• The door at the top of the basement stairs (this is a huge one)

Use acoustic caulk (not just painter’s caulk) around seams. Around pipes, use foam or backer rod, then seal. It’s kind of boring, but it’s the foundation. A lot of noise is flanking noise—sound taking the side road around your main wall—so we close the side road.

Walls and ceilings that actually stop sound

Now let’s talk structure. If you’re finishing or refacing your basement, this is where you make it quiet forever.

1. Add mass

Sound hates heavy things. Two layers of 5/8″ drywall perform better than one. If you really want to push it, use a layer of Green Glue noiseproofing compound between the drywall sheets. Green Glue doesn’t look like much, but it absorbs vibration nicely.

Some homeowners in Salt Lake City add Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) behind drywall on shared walls—like between a basement bedroom and the family room. It’s not always necessary, but it’s a good tool if you have an especially loud space.

2. Decouple when you can

This sounds technical, but the idea is simple: if the drywall isn’t touching the framing directly, the vibration won’t move as easily. That’s why contractors use resilient channel or sound isolation clips on ceilings under main living areas. Perfect for basements under busy kitchens.

Think of it like putting a shock absorber between the noise and the room. You still finish it like normal drywall—it just works better.

3. Fill the cavity with the right stuff

Don’t skip insulation. Standard fiberglass helps a bit, but mineral wool (like Rockwool Safe’n’Sound) is a favorite because it’s denser and made for sound. It doesn’t make a wall soundproof by itself—but combined with mass and decoupling, it’s excellent.

So the winning combo for many basements is: insulated stud wall + resilient channel (or clips) + double drywall with Green Glue. Not cheap—but very quiet.

Ceiling noise from upstairs? This is how you tame it

Let’s be honest: footsteps are the noisiest part. You can’t fully erase impact noise without touching the floor above, but you can cut it way down.

On the basement side:

• Stuff joist bays with mineral wool
• Use isolation clips or channel to hang the new ceiling
• Finish with two layers of 5/8″ drywall, staggered seams

If you’re doing a full reno upstairs too, add a sound-damping underlayment under the main-floor flooring—especially under LVP or laminate, which can sound “clicky.”

You know what? Even just switching the upstairs door at the top of the stairs to a solid core slab makes a noticeable difference. Hollow core doors leak sound like crazy.

Don’t forget the “little” things: doors, stairs, and vents

Basement soundproofing fails on the details, not the big walls.

Doors: Use solid core. Add weatherstripping. Add a door sweep. You can even make a basement feel like a separate unit just by treating the door like an exterior one.

Stairwell: This is a sound chimney. If your basement stairwell is open, consider adding a door at the bottom or top. Even a glass door keeps sound from sloshing upstairs.

HVAC: If your supply/return trunks run through the basement ceiling, wrap them. Rigid metal ducts carry sound from one room to another. Lined flex duct on the last couple of feet helps. Some people add “sound boots” at the registers.

What about home theaters and music rooms?

Now we’re talking fun. A lot of SLC homeowners want a basement theater that doesn’t wake the toddlers. That’s 100% possible if you treat it like a box inside a box.

For high-output spaces:

• Fully insulated walls and ceiling
• Clips and channel on every surface you can
• Two layers of 5/8″ drywall with Green Glue
• Solid core door with perimeter seals
• Acoustic panels on the inside—NOT for blocking sound, but for cleaning up echo

Quick note: those cool hexagon foam panels you see on TikTok? They’re for echo. They don’t block bass from a subwoofer. So don’t count on them for real soundproofing.

DIY vs hiring a local basement finishing crew

Can you DIY basement soundproofing? Totally—if you’re patient and don’t mind buying the right materials. The problem is that sound failures are invisible. If you miss one cavity or screw the channel too tight to the stud, it can ruin the performance of that whole wall.

That’s why a lot of homeowners around Salt Lake City call a basement finishing contractor who already knows how to frame for sound, how far to space isolation clips, and which walls absolutely need the second layer. Professionals also know local code—so if you’re creating a basement bedroom, they’ll make sure you have egress and that your sound wall doesn’t mess with it.

Honestly, the sweet spot is doing the things you can (sealing, swapping doors, insulating what’s exposed) and letting a crew handle the ceiling and shared walls.

Seasonal thought: winter is noisy

Quick Utah real-life thing—when it’s cold and everyone’s inside, all the noise stacks up. Kids, TV, workouts, gaming, laundry. That’s why fall and winter are great times to finish the basement and make it quiet. You get use out of that space right away, not six months later.

Ready to quiet that basement?

Whether you’re creating a rental suite, a teen hangout, or a home theater where you can watch the Jazz without shaking the baby’s room—soundproofing is the upgrade people always wish they’d done sooner. You don’t have to make it “recording studio” silent; you just have to control the paths noise likes to take.

If you want someone local who understands Utah basements, uneven concrete walls, and real-life families—reach out.

• By Phone: 801-515-3473
• By Form: https://utbasementfinishing.com/request-quote/#go